Cooktops, heaters and gas lines installed, tested and certified. We work out where a flue can legally go before quoting, because on these houses that is the real constraint.
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In most suburbs, deciding where a gas appliance and its flue go is a question of convenience.
Here it is a question of what is available. These houses are built hard against the boundary and frequently against the house next door, so the external wall that is not close to a window, a door or a neighbour's opening can be a surprisingly small amount of the building.
Flue terminations have clearance requirements for good reason. Those requirements do not bend, and in this housing they rule out a lot of the wall that would otherwise be the obvious spot.
There is nearly always a compliant answer. What there is not is the freedom to assume one, which is why we look at the position before quoting rather than discovering the problem with an appliance already on the truck.
Leave the building, touch no switches, tell the neighbours on your way past, and ring from outside.
Open up, get out, touch nothing electrical, and ring from the street. In a terrace, tell the neighbours either side as you go.
Turn the gas off at the meter if you can reach it safely. On these houses the meter is frequently in the front wall at the footpath, which makes that easy.
A licensed gas fitter answers when you ring us, and where the network's emergency crew is the right first call we will say so.
Flue terminations have clearance requirements from windows, doors and boundaries, and in housing built hard against the neighbour there is very little external wall to work with.
The windows that matter are frequently not yours. A terminal has to clear the neighbour's openings as well as your own.
So the position of a flued appliance here is a calculation rather than a preference, and it is the first thing to establish.
It just has to be worked out rather than assumed, and worked out before an appliance is bought rather than after it has arrived.
Sometimes it is a different position, sometimes a different appliance with different flue requirements, and occasionally a room-sealed unit that changes the arithmetic.
What does not work is buying first and asking afterwards, which is the most common way this goes wrong.
Gas runs in these houses have been extended and altered by successive owners, frequently without any record of what was done or when.
So what is behind the wall is genuinely unknown until it is tested, and testing it is part of connecting anything new.
That occasionally finds something. When it does we tell you before doing the work rather than after.
Adding an appliance is a calculation against total demand rather than a connection. The line has a capacity and so does the meter, and in housing of this age both are frequently modest.
The input rating on the appliance plate is the number the calculation runs on, and a photograph of it is enough to start.
Where the sums do not work, appliances starve each other, and a burner that drops off whenever somebody runs a shower is nearly always this.
An appliance burning indoors consumes air from the room it is in, and the rooms in these houses were never large.
Draught proofing, new windows and a sealed fireplace all make a room tighter, and every one of them is a sensible improvement that reduces air movement.
So a kitchen that was fine for thirty years can stop being fine after a renovation that touched nothing to do with the gas.
With shared walls on both sides and no usable side access, a new run frequently has to go through the building rather than around it.
Existing service paths, a subfloor, or a cupboard line are the cheap routes where they exist, and finding them is part of quoting the work.
It is why a quote here comes from somebody having looked rather than from a price per metre.
Pipe sized for distance and demand, a pressure test that held, clearances from the manufacturer's own instructions, flueing to the right termination, and ventilation sized for the appliance and the room.
Every item there is covered up by the time the job is handed over, and none of it can be verified afterwards by looking.
That asymmetry is exactly what the certificate exists to close, and it is the reason an insurer asks for one rather than for an invoice.
A Certificate of Compliance is legally required and issued by the licensed gasfitter who did the work. It is the only durable proof of who did it and to what standard.
Keep it with the property papers. It is what an insurer asks for after an incident and what a conveyancer asks for at sale.
On a house where the gas work spans a century of owners, your own paperwork is the only part of that history you control.
Gas fitting is licensed work in NSW with no small-job exemption. In a freestanding house that risk is taken on your own behalf.
In a terrace with shared walls it is taken on behalf of the houses either side, who have no say in it and no way of knowing.
Anybody offering to do gas work without issuing a certificate has told you something useful about how they work.
Fixed price agreed before anything starts. These are indicative 2026 ranges and the Certificate of Compliance is included in every one of them.
The installation pressure tested, with a written result.
Connected, tested and certified, with the certificate handed over.
Depending on the run and what it has to pass through in an old house.
Installed and certified, sized for the appliance rather than for convenience.
Legally required, and included on every gas job without being asked.
Where a flue can legally terminate, given the windows, the doors and the boundary. That comes before any quote.
A pressure test on what we are connecting to, which on a century of additions is not a formality.
Installed and commissioned properly, in a position that actually complies rather than one that merely suits the kitchen.
Issued on the spot, and worth filing with the house papers.
Leave the building, tell the neighbours on your way past, and ring us from outside.
Call 1300 381 569Get everyone outside first. Do not touch any switch, do not use a phone indoors, and if the meter is safely on your way out, turn it off. In a terrace, knock on the neighbour's door on the way past rather than assuming somebody else has. Then ring from outside.
Because there is very little external wall on these houses that is not close to a window, a door or a boundary. Flue terminations have clearance requirements for good reason, and in housing built hard against the neighbour those clearances rule out a lot of the wall that would otherwise be obvious. It is the single most common reason a straightforward-looking appliance change turns into a design question.
Usually you can, it just needs the position working out properly rather than assumed. There is nearly always a compliant answer. What there is not is the freedom to put it wherever suits the kitchen, which is why we look before quoting rather than after.
The document a licensed gasfitter issues certifying the work was done to standard. It is legally required and it is the only durable record the job was done properly. Keep it with the house papers, because insurers ask and so does a conveyancer at sale. We issue one on every gas job without being asked.
No. Gas is licensed work in NSW with no exemption for a small job or a capable owner. Unlicensed work cannot be certified, voids a home insurance claim, and in a house that shares a wall it is not only your risk.
Yes. Certifying a new appliance on a line losing pressure elsewhere achieves nothing, so we pressure test what we are connecting to. On pipework that has been added to by successive owners for a century, that is not a formality.
A leak test on the installation is $150 to $300. A cooktop connected and certified is $250 to $500. A new gas point run and certified is $450 to $1,200 depending on the run and what it passes through. A heater bayonet is $300 to $600. The certificate is included in all of it.
Tell us what you want fitted and whether there is external wall clear of windows and boundaries. That second answer decides most of it.
Position checked before quoting, whole installation tested, and the certificate issued as standard.
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